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History of Perfume

We’ve all been captivated by the alluring scents of fresh flowers, baking bread, or brewing coffee. Since scent is routed through the olfactory bulb, which is connected to regions of the brain that relate to memory and emotion, it has the capability of triggering emotion.

Although scent preferences vary, people worldwide are lured by fragrance. In 2016, the global market was estimated to ring in $40.1 billion. Beyond fragrances and colognes, scent is spritzed into homes and used to usher ambiance into posh hotels. Artificial scents such as the aroma of freshly baked bread or coffee are also pumped into retail spaces to entice customers.

Perfume has played a pivotal role in history. The word "perfume" is derived from the Latin, per fumus. It translates to “through smoke,” which refers to a creative practice involving the transformation of substance into something airborne through nebulization.

The first recorded chemist was Tapputi—a perfume maker mentioned in a cuneiform tablet which dates back to 1200 BC in Babylonian Mesopotamia. Perfume also has roots in India between 3300 BCE and 1300 BCE. In one Hindu text, astronomer and mathematician Varahamihira makes reference to fragrance formulas.

According to National Geographic, the oldest perfumery was in Cyprus where a factory existed 4,000 years ago. Although the buildings were destroyed during an earthquake in 1850 BC, the perfume bottles, mixing jugs, and stills were untouched. Islamic cultures also made great contributions to Western perfumery. They perfected the extraction of fragrances through steam distillation and introduced new raw materials.

The Hungarians are credited for unveiling the first modern perfume in 1370, under Queen Elizabeth of Hungary. Perfumery also prospered in Renaissance Italy. France, specifically the Grasse region, also blossomed into a European center for perfume. The picturesque countryside is still regarded as the world’s fragrance capital.

Perfume was also king during the reign of Louis XV in the 18th century. His court was referred to as “la cour parfumée” or “the perfumed court,” since he requested a new fragrance daily. Napoleon also had a vast appreciation for fragrance—specifically the scent of violets.

During the 1920’s, the modern world of fragrance was reimagined when Coco Chanel debuted Chanel No. 5. Redefining women’s fragrances, the scent deviated from traditional florals, animal musks, and jasmine. Rather bold, the fragrance symbolized the liberated spirit of the flapper era. More recent years have witnessed a rise in “niche” fragrances created in small batches at artisanal studios. Of course, these posh perfumes are reserved for specialty shops and luxury boutiques.

For more on scent, explore Marcel Proust’s Remembrance of Things Past, in which the author references the difference between voluntary memory and the more involuntary memory triggered by smell, sound, or taste. Kathleen Tessaro’s The Perfume Collector also highlights the powerful link between memory and scent. In Nancy Mitford’s The Pursuit of Love, Nancy is asked if she’s wearing Guerlain's Après l'Ondée fragrance.

By Regina Molaro